On the 5th of September, Chris & Martyn met up in Bangkok before spending nearly three weeks in Thailand.
After a few days in Bangkok they flew down to Samui then took the boat to Chris & Ellie's home on Koh Pha Ngan.Then all three spent a few days at Railay Bay in Krabi.
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September 4/5th 2003

I left the UK at 9.15pm BST flying EVA Air, a Taiwanese carrier. Its an early 747-400, with poor in flight entertainment but more leg room than BA! The plane is on route to Taipei and the passengers are mostly Chinese. The service on board is very good with excellent food and attentive staff. Sleep through a great deal of the flight and read through the rest with h band on the mini disc.

Arrive in Bangkok on 5th Sept after the smoothest landing I have ever had. A bit of a hassle getting through immigration and start to get worried that the hotel driver will give up and leave.

Finally get through and clear customs, quickly find the limo driver and start looking for Chris. Hear a loud shout of MARTYN! and turn to see Chris waving madly away. It's a fairly long drive to the hotel and the traffic in Bangkok seems as bad as ever. We are staying for a couple of days at the Imperial Queens Park It's quite swanky, we have not been given the penthouse suite we were expecting but its a nice room anyway. We both have a shower and a cup of tea.

Chris caught a bus directly from Koh Pha Ngan on Thursday, which took the ferry to Suritani and then drove overnight up to Bangkok.

Chris was quite impressed with the journey, comfortable, reclining seats, snacks, and one stopover which included an excellent meal. Great value if you are on a tight budget.

We watch TV for a bit before going down to the bar for 'free' cocktails and my first Singha beer in some time. Chris wants to go to Patpong, so we walk up to Phom station and catch the Skytrain to a station close by. The Skytrain is a new Rapid Transit system and it's clean comfortable, air conditioned and cheap!

After a bit of a detour we get to Patpong. It reminds me a bit of Patong Beach, thousands of stalls all trying to part us from our money and people hustling every inch of the way. Chris is on the lookout for a VCD, but we don't find it. Walking around in the heat and humidity is very tiring, so we decide to eat and have a sit down. We look for an Italian restaurant and someone tells us that Roberto's in the next street is good. We don't find it but see another one. Chris has a pizza and I have a lasagne, washed down with a large Chang. We go for looking for another bar, perhaps with some entertainment. Some guy tells us he knows a good one and suggests we follow him. As he seems to be leading us down a dark alley, we decline. Chris is by now feeling pretty tired and I am feeling very hot, so we head back to the Skytrain. We take a detour to 7/11 for some more Chang. We don't want to pay the inflated mini bar prices at the hotel. Back at the hotel there is a superb live jazz band playing in the main bar. We listen to them over a cup of coffee before returning to the room for that now ice cool Chang and then crash out.

6th
We get up around 9.30 and go down for breakfast. Chris is in heaven! Not sure how many times he goes up for more, but he stills looks as skinny as ever! After stuffing ourselves we head off to Siam Square and do a bit of shopping in the MBK Centre. The contrast between the air con centre and outside is pretty extreme. Chris still can't find the VCD he wants but I look for and find a hat to buy. Can't believe so many shops there are all selling the same things. Tens of thousands of mobile phones, who on earth buys them?

We stop for a cup of tea and then try to get a taxi to go and see the Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaeo. A very persistent tuk tuk driver wants to take us for a good price providing we go via a tailors shop. We decline, and finally get a taxi with a meter. It's a fair trek across the city. All the familiar sights, sounds and smells are there. Although the streets are as gridlocked as ever, the air pollution seems less than I remember. Chris was unaware that he needs to wear long trousers and proper shoes and gets conned into renting some outside the Palace. As soon as we get inside we discover that you can get the right clothing for free!

A guy sporting an 'official badge offers to guide us for 300 baht, which we turn down. When we get inside we discover that there is a free English guide! It's my second visit to the Palace and Temple complex, Carole and I came here about 5 years ago. It is Chris's first time. We are really impressed with the place, it is beautiful, magnificent, far too much to take in, and we spend ages wandering around trying to do just that! Then its off to see the Reclining Buddha at Wat Pho. It's around a 10 minute walk, and we soon get accosted by some young and pretty Thai girls, who want to interview us in English as part of their college course. We get to the temple and although you can see the pictures we took, they don't do it justice. There are a lot of tourists, but also a lot of ordinary Thai people paying their respects. Like churches across the world, there is a roof restoration fund, and we both purchase and sign a tile each.

As we get outside its starts to rain. We had intended to go for a trip down the Chao Phraya river, but we spent so long at the Palace and the Wat, there isn't enough time. So, after negotiating a price with a Tuk Tuk driver we head for the Koh San Rd. Just as well we did, because now it pouring!

It takes about ten minutes to get to Koh San and its still raining when we get there. We decide its 'Chang Time' and head for a bar. Koh San Road is still a haven for backpackers and there are hundreds and hundreds of them. It also has had a reputation for being pretty seedy, but the bar we entered looks clean and the service is good, and, having seen meals being served to other people, we decide to order ourselves. Chris has Pad Ka prow done in the Thai way, I soon discover he can eat that for every meal of the day! I have Chicken and Cashew Nuts, both are excellent and cheap! Afterwards we go for a wander, and Chris is amazed at how much better the place is. I had orders from Nick Sutton to get him a T shirt and soon we are bargaining on a price. Hope you like it mate! We wander around some more with Chris showing me some of the places he has stayed at over the years.

For some reason no taxi driver wants to take the trip across town to our hotel. We finally persuade one, much to my relief as I am knackered. It's miles away and the Saturday evening traffic is solid. The driver is a mad man and how we made it back I just don't know! He didn't care which side of the road he drove on, even going up blind hills on the wrong side of the road! But we made it back safely, and were soon washing off the city grime in the shower. We decide to eat at the hotel. It was superb, and not expensive considering we ate from the al a carte menu. Then back to the bar for some more Changs, The jazz band were playing again and we stayed until the end of their set and had a good chat with both the pianist and the girl singer.

September 7th
When we first got to the hotel on Friday, I had had a text message from Chris's mum telling us that his Uncle Frank was having a stopover in Bangkok. If we wanted to meet up with him he was staying at ... yep you guessed it ... at the Imperial Queens Park! We try to leave a message for him, but somehow it gets delivered to our room instead. We finally get through and arrange to meet for breakfast.

Breakfast with Frank lasts forever, he brings Chris up to date on family bits and pieces and then keeps us well amused with a host of great stories, We find ourselves the only people left in the restaurant except for the staff who want to close up. We adjourn to the hotel lobby, but time is against us, and we have to say our goodbyes. Chris is determined to try out the jacuzzi bath in the room, and it takes a lot to prise him out of it so we can check out and take the waiting limo to the Airport.

We are flying Bangkok Airways to Koh Samui, the next island to Koh Pha Ngan. Tickets sorted, and bags checked in we head for the departure lounge. This has free internet, which despite being dead slow, we take advantage of to check and send a few emails. Their courtesy corner provides free drinks, snacks and fruit, so we take advantage of that too. The flight is delayed by about an hour, so its mid afternoon before we set off. A hour or so later, Koh Phan Ngan comes into view as we descend into Koh Samui Airport, and Chris delights in naming the various beaches as we pass over them. The guy in front of us turns around and introduces himself as Troy, an American, and he tells he also lives on the island, and was responsible, along with others for setting a place called The Sanctuary. Chris is aware of it but has not visited it as it out of his price range. After one of the scariest landings ever we are taxi-ing in towards the airport building. Samui Airport looks like it was designed by Disney, and it is certainly the prettiest one I have ever seen. Before long we have our bags and are sitting in a mini bus waiting to take a short ride to Bhoput from where we will take the ferry to Hat Rin tomorrow morning.

Chris is intending for us to get a bungalow overnight at The Secret Garden on Bhoput beach which is renowned for its live bands on Sunday evenings. There are none vacant, but a short walk along the sands finds us a beach front one with TV shower air con and fans for 900baht a night.

After a doze, a cup of tea, shower and change, we settle down on the porch to watch a beautiful sunset and gaze across the sea to Kho Pha Ngan. Then its back to the Secret Garden to be thoroughly entertained by two Thai bands, the second of which, A Decent Band, was brilliant. They start off with Floyd's Wish You Were Here, followed by With or Without You. The set is total magic, I try to text Nathan, Francis and Iain to tell them but can't get through, damn! The whole show was excellent and afterwards we have a chat with the lead singer Michael. A great night, with a good BBQ washed down with plenty of, yep you guessed it again...Chang!!

The set over, and everywhere closed down, we talk a long walk, the length of the beach and back with just a local dog who has decided to adopt us for company. A perfect day in paradise comes slowly to an end!

8th
We are up reasonably early to catch the 10.00am ferry to Hat Rin. It’s just a short walk along the beach to the jetty. There are quite a few people about because of the upcoming Full Moon Party. And so, I finally set foot on Koh Pha Ngan.

Hat Rin is busy little place and there are loads of backpackers haggling over motor bike hire prices. Chris knows the roads and shakes his head at those who are soon to have a rude awakening! It’s a steep and very bumpy ride to Tongsala by taxi, and I soon see what Chris means about the unsuspecting bike riders being in for a shock. We are going to pick up a jeep to hire for a few days. Chris gives it a full inspection and off we go!

He is supposed to teaching today, so after a short detour to say hi to Ellie we head for the Shri Thanu school. When we get there Chris is told they can no longer afford to pay them. English teaching is not funded by the government and comes straight out of parents pockets. Feeling very down we head back to town to find Ellie and break the news to her.

We try to cheer ourselves up by having a nice lunch in A's, a Farang restaurant run by an American called Mike and then head off to Chaloklum. Chris decides to take the ‘scenic’ route which involves even bumpier tracks! We finally arrive at Chris and Ellie’s home in the jungle.

Hadn't realised how tired I was! Shortly after we get there Jon & Ollie come over. Ollie had been staying with Ellie and had being acting as her dishwasher and general factotum whilst Chris was away, but has now moved into Jon & Kai’s place down the road, whilst planning his trip to Cambodia. Chris calls a friend(another Chris) who owns and operates The Chill Inn to check if they are open. They are so we all head on down there with the stoner movie, How High, that Chris had picked up in Bangkok. The guys had Massaman Curry and I had a great Chicken and Cashew Nut Stir fry. Chris’s company and Kai's cooking made it another chilled night at their chill inn.

During the evening Jonny told us about the 2metre cobra they had found inside his house. He had been inches from it without realising it and Ollie had been sleeping close by it on the floor. Luckily Jonny’s kitten had raised the alarm by acting very strangely. Some Thai guys came and had the skills not only to dispose of it, but to enjoy a nice meal from it as well

9th
Chris and Ellie have to go to work. Chris finishes at eleven and came back home to find me in an increasingly popular position, the hammock horizontalness.... We go off to Jonny's house, it's about 5 miles away, and Chris takes a short cut through the local Wat and catches me out with his story about how the monks sitting in the shelter get annoyed with him, hmm they are statues!

Ollie, Jon, Chris and I go for lunch at the Swiss Bakery. The best sandwiches on the island apparently. We hang round in the rain in Thong Sala, buying stuff, as you do, and seeking out the cheapest laundry on earth 30bht a kilo! Then it's back to Ellie and Chris's house, I contract hammocktosis and we play Connect4. This brings back great memories of games that Iain and I had last time I was in Thailand. Chris adds a new lock to the house door. security has been a problem for them, but this seemed to lock bolt tight their palace..... What time is it? ..............Chang Time! ®©

Ellie cooks the tastiest faquitas ever. The hammock attacks me and judo flips me to the floor. I got it back though, I sat on it for the next four hours. Time for bed, but I seem to have an extra guest, an enormous hairy spider which eventually disappears, and I hid under the mosquito net for a few hours!

10th
Chris goes to school for the morning. Ellie goes in at lunch to do the afternoon classes. What a star teacher.. Ollie, Chris and I take a 4x4 outing. The drive is mental, the worst roads I have seen so far, ruts in all directions and hills that seem 1in1! We arrive at our intended destination, the Than Sadet waterfall. Ollie wonders what it would looks after some heavy rain, hmmm someone heard him cos moments later the flood gates......
open. We try to shelter under some trees and get covered in ants. So just have get wet whilst we try to find some shelter. The road is now even worse and we get stuck on way back. The road is blocked by a car stuck in rainy mud water and it is churning up even deeper ruts. Chris seemed to think we were going to die.

"I actually thought I was gonna be the driver of death" says Chris. "I hate those unnatural road blocks.....". So we crawled back to Than Sadet and hit the beach and have lunch at a charming and classic KPG style restaurant, on the beach, called, Mai Pen Rai...MART, you can translate this can't you.........no problem....restaurant."

Chris got his dose of pad ka prow, Thai style of course, Ollie joined him and I had my hit of chicken and cashew nut. On the way back we stopped off at the Wat Po, home of the herbal sauna. HOT, that aint the word for it. I thought my lungs would catch fire, after a while I got more used to it, oh so refreshing...

11th
Chris and I walk to Bottle Beach through the jungle from Chaloklaam! Chris says "What can I say Mart, you joined the few who have walked there. Not many of my bunch and from what I've seen, not many from other bunches have done it. This may also have been your exercise quota for the next year but think about how cool it was, or how hot you were...good day man, I enjoyed that walk...look forward to the next one."

It takes longer than Chris thinks, cos I am so slow. We arrive at 3pm and have a much needed drink. We have to leave straight away due to the boat driver, Nam Meng leaving early. Oh and the dogs came too, there was no leaving them behind. Unlike Jonny and Ollie who somehow weren't up for it! But I enjoyed it!

That evening we ate in, Noodles from the noodle man in the village and some Thai take out, Chaloklaam style. We had Pad ped, Stirfry Curry, Pad Ka prow, Kai Kai Dow, stir fry with holy basil and chicken and as I said oodles of noodles. Apart from me that is, I didn't get mine, as it became pot luck which had fish sauce in, and the chance of dying out weighed the chance of tasting, as Ellie puts it; the Thai MacDonalds.. Then the hammocks grabbed Chris and I and we didn't wake up until about 4am, oh, hammocks we love you.....

12th
We pick up Jonny and Ollie and go for a cruise around Tongsala, having first taken a ton of returnable Chang empties for some dosh. After a trip inland we search out the AMSTARDAM bar which has just reopened. It is set into a hillside and surrounded by some really nice houses. We sit and chill there over a few Changs before head off to find somewhere for lunch. We discover Nakthathon, a secret cove with a handful of bungalows and enjoy a nice lunch on the breach front.. Drive home the scenic route then its time for scrabble. In the evening we drive over to Haad Yao to the Tanthawan, French cuisine at it's best! Then on the way back we drop in at Overbay for coffee. Great specials here..

13th
The palace's new top security system, installed, earlier in the week, proved weak compared to the man/boy/woman/girl that appears to be able to walk through wooden walls. Having just dropped the jeep off, we have to get a taxi to go to the police station in Tongsala to report the theft of most of my money from the house. The atmosphere is a bit low, but we still manage to have a great evening at Nongnooks in Chaloklaam. I try Pad Thai...am still in counseling trying to get me off that stuff. Chris's Pad Ka prow addiction suddenly seems more acceptable.

14th
We spend the day on Bottle Beach, Ellie, Chris, Ollie and myself. Bottle Beach....what a place. No adjectives adequately describe it. See Chris's mind to get a better look. We rent out N45 for the day. N45 is the original head resting spot on KPG for Chris and is his spiritual home. For 150 Bht, can anywhere be better....

The N45 end of the beach used to have some rocks in the sea, but they have been removed and there is now a shallow pool like bit where we laze around keeping cool. I meet the BB crew, Pee Ked (who reminds me very much of Cherry), Nook, Bvo, Phon and a few other beautiful people. A really nice day! In the evening we head back into Chaloklaam to the noodle man and meet up with Jonny and Kai for a meal on the roadside...a typical night out for the Chaloklaam residence.

15th
Ellie and Chris come back from school to find me 'resting' in the hammock. They have come up with a change of plan. Instead of going to Krabi today we are going back to Bottle Beach overnight and will return tomorrow and set off to Krabi on Wednesday. No argument from me about that! We get the longtail boat and we are well on our way when Chris realises he has left his money behind. So back we go.... along comes a tropical storm and Chris gets soaked on his way back to us.

We spend a magic day on Bottle Beach, there's plenty of hammock time and some Changs and good food. Chris and Ellie have their favourite bungalow 45 and I have 43. I have a few dark moments, but if dark moments come, BB is the BEST place have them. Sleep a bit fitfully, its a very windy night. In the morning after breakfast we watch a movie the guys brought with them. Its called Saving Nemo and as its set in Sydney. .. Well...

Chris is determined to beat me at table tennis, and thinks that 90degree temperatures and 90+% humidity offers him a a chance...... No Way Jose!

We have a few problems getting off the beach as the last boat of the day goes without us, despite knowing we were waiting. By the time we persuade the guy to come back for a vastly inflated fee it's dark and the rains are on their way.

As we walk home from the beach we come across a weird incident. A drunk/drugged Austrian guy is harassing one of Chris and Ellie's neighbours, a beautiful Thai girl. We finally manage to get him away from the house but he goes straight back. The girl is really frightened as she is alone in the house. Chris decides to walk him back into Chaloklaam. He doesn't really want to go, we discover he is renting a bungalow near the beach. We persuade him that back into to town is the way for him to get home! It's dark and pouring with rain. I vainly try to catch up with both of them but struggle in the darkness, lose my flip flops in the puddles, and generally stagger about. Eventually I catch up and we get back into Chaloklaam. The guy is pretty incoherent but we sit him down at the noodle stall and Chris buys him noodle soup. We try to talk to him and and get some sense out of him, but without much success. After some time we realise Ellie may be getting worried so having told him how to get to his bungalow. we head back. It's wet and dark and Chris is going like the clappers and I get left behind again. Local knowledge is extremely useful in the dark! I stub my big toe BIG time just after having lost my flip flop in a huge puddle yet again! When we get back to the girl's house her boyfriend is there, so we head home.

Ellie has found a motor bike lying across the road, near the track which leads to their house which the guy has obviously fallen off in his drunken state. We move it to the side of the road. We finally get back to the house, Bo is extremely pleased to see us. We look like drowned rats! I go to get some antiseptic for my toe and just as I am about to pick up my bag I spot an enormous spider sitting on it, Chris attempts to kill it, chasing it around the room with a saucepan,finally Timmy arrives and pretty soon eats it. Timmy also dispatches a couple of huge beetles on the mosquito net,and then spends some time patrolling around the bed. We eventually get to bed at who knows what time ready for 5.30 start in the morning. Chris has regained his happy face, he realises we were meant to miss the boat, because if we hadn't we would not have prevented what could have been a really nasty incident!

17th
Up and showered and packed ready to go Railay bay on Krabi. Chris has to wake up a taxi driver in Chaloklaam and off we go to Tongsala to catch the Seatran catamaran to Suri Tani. We meet with Kai who is travelling on the same boat on her way to Bangkok for a fashion show. The cat is faster than the boat from Koh Samui and we soon arrive at Nathon to pick up some more passengers. We get to the port on the mainland and then transfer to a bus for the next stage of our journey. This is an hours ride to place just outside Suri Tani called Donsak. We get put down at a bus station and we have to wait for another bus to Krabi. We doze for most of the journey and two hours later we arrive. A short mini bus to Ao Nang and then a taxi boat to Railay Bay West Beach. The sea is pretty rough and we all get soaked again.

When we get to the resort all the cheapest rooms are gone,so we end up having to bht1200 a night! The rooms are large with air con, shower and western toilet. I might stay in the shower for ages. We head for the restuarant where I have fish and chips. Best i've had in years. Hey Chris what did you and Ellie have? Chris goes for swim in the pool and Ellie and I laze around for a bit. The beach is hive of activity, football matches (4),volleyball, kiting and a couple of frisbee'rs who really know their stuff. The sun is going down so we , like a number of others , just sit on the beach to watch another beautiful Thai sunset. After a bit of a walk, we head back for dinner, Chris has blue crab, don't remember what Ellie and I had, It's then we remember, we hadn't paid for the meal earlier. Oops! That sorted we have a final drink for the evening. Feeling tired I go back to my room and Chris & Ellie go for a walk to Railay East beach.

18th
Not a bad breakfast, then we go off to poolside. The sun is shining! I leave Chris and Ellie there and toddle off to see Railay Bay East. Its quite different, there's no real beach. it's mostly mud and there are mangrove along the waters edge. Lots of small bars and shops and there is a climbng school is at the penisular end. I buy a couple of T shirts, I can't get the right sizes. Maybe I will lose weight when I get home hmm! I would have bought more stuff but my cash is low and they dont take credit cards.

Back to the pool for a spalsh around and for game of scrabble. All get high scores. We all go back to Railay East for lunch in an Indian place high up in the cliffs. Chris and Ellie have some naan bread which is superb,I have Pad Thonng which is also great. We stop off at a coffee stall on the back, great coffee! A large spindly yellow and black spider drops onto my lap, wheres the curds and whey? I then head back for another snooze. As the sun sets we look for different place to eat. Chris & Ellie have the biggest chicken kebabs ever and I have chicken & asparagus. There is a whole family of cats wandering around the tables. We feed some cute kittens, one of which gives Chris a scratch of thanks. We wander around the corner where Chris & Ellie find a pancake stall. They are ok. but not as good as Chaloklum. A couple beers later and we are at the minimarket for top ups before heading back to my room for some serious card playng. Prediction whist and a new game to me called shithead. Great game which requires concentration when you least have it.

Fri
Another good breakfast before walking to another beautiful beach. The sun is shining when get there but when we get to the end of the beach and around to a secluded little cove we get a tropical thunderstorm. We shelter under some rocks and wait for it go. Heading back we stop to see the climbers. Very impressive.

Back to the resturant for pad thai for me a salad for Ellie and cheeseburger for Chrissy. The heavens open again so play more cards. When it eases I go to pick my laundry up ,seem to gained bras, panties and stuff. Hmm not sure if any of mine is missing. Start packing but spend more time sitting on the loo, still raining and it looks like its not going to stop. We all head down to the restaurant for a final meal, finished off witn large cocktails before heading back for more cards.

Sat
When we were setting of for Krabi we thought that I could get a plane back to Bangkok, but the first one of the day is not until 10.00am and I would miss my flight home. Hmmmmm thats an idea. Rather than lose a day, we plan a tortous journey. I will get up at 3.00am. take a half hour longtail boat ride to Krabi, where a taxi will be waiting to take me on a one and a half hour journey to Phuket where I can get a flight to Bangkok and then home. It's pitch dark on Railay Bay East as we say our goodbyes and big hugs all round. Then I wade into the sea to get into the longboat. Its quite strange being all alone in the middle of the night, out at sea, in total darkness with a complete stranger, who you can't converse with. Soon I am on my way along the coast, as light comes I keep dozing off, though manage to see a fair bit of the scenery along the way. We arrive at Phuket past the check in time, and it is not until I have handed by bags over, not to be seen again until Heathrow, that I realise that in my rush, I have forgotten to change out of the T shirt, shorts and flip flops that Ineed for the longtail boat. Arggh!

Its a nice flight and I have the company of a 15yr Thai lad who has been on a photgraphic trip to Phuket. He is due to be taking a English exam a couple of hours after he arrives home in Bangkok, and is keen to chat the whole way. If you ever read this let me know how you got on!

Back in Bangkok I have to use up my last bit of cash to pay the airport tax which I wasnt expecting. I dash around the shops for a few last minute prezzies and some suitable clothes and shoes for the flight home. Then we are on our way and it's Nothing To Declare time at Heathrow. Carole and Nathan are waiting, but the luggage container jams on the plane and it's over an hour before we are through.

I am probably incoherent, with so much to tell and being totally wacked, but its good to be home to Carole, though can't wait for the next time I see the beautiful country of Thailand in the company of some beautiful friends

Much Love

Martyn
xxxxx